The University District is packed with cheap Korean jjigae restaurants, but the best is this generic-sounding basement restaurant a few steps off the Ave." He touted its "incredibly cheap and delicious earthenware bowls of bulgogi, broiled squid, pork tofu soup, and spicy barbecue pork. True to Korean tradition of banchan, each entrée includes unlimited amounts of five side dishes: kimchi, cold potato with soy (gamjajorim), seasoned soybean sprouts (kongnamul), scallion pancake (pajeon), and fish cake (odeng). LESTER BLACK