In its 100-plus years of existence, Maneki has only had one major interruption to business: when it shut down because the US government sent Japanese Americans to internment camps during World War II. After the war, in 1946, internees returned to the city and reclaimed their belongings from a space in the NP Hotel that has since been the restaurant’s home. Maneki is pure comfort food, serving izakaya and very reasonably priced sushi six nights a week. Do everyone a favor and call ahead for a reservation.