It’s a clam-claim assault, all the plaques and cries of “Nation’s Best!” as you step up to the register at Pike Place Chowder. But then you put a spoonful of perfectly hot soup to your lips, and realize that the proprietors are just stating facts. Nothing in this soup is allowed to be larger than the clams, and that is as it should be. Dill, parsley, red pepper, maybe some zest of orange or lemon—you will taste them all, you will marvel at the flawlessly smooth and creamy soup, and at the end of the meal, you will be extraordinarily happy and surprisingly full.