Thuy Pham's Vietnamese pop-up, which she started at the beginning of the pandemic while unable to continue her usual job as a hairdresser, specializes in vegan Vietnamese food, with remarkably realistic plant-based versions of crispy pork belly, chicken wings, and other meats. Now she's opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant, serving mushroom bao buns, jackfruit banh mi sandwiches, turmeric waffles, and other delights.